Darmstadt

Jürgen grew up in and around Darmstadt, Germany, so these stories are part travel, part memory lane: his teenage years as a Heiner, the village of Traisa, and his grandmother’s house in Bad König in the Odenwald, where Café Rudolph still bakes Baumkuchen. In the city itself we finally visited Hundertwasser’s curve-loving Waldspirale, studied the century-old wildlife dioramas at the Hessisches Landesmuseum, and rounded up our favorite sunset spots.