An Unexpectedly Dangerous Hike around Telendos

Over the years, we've gotten ourselves into many challenging hiking situations, from the Hengill Death Hike in Iceland, to the Leech Attack in Sri Lanka. And thanks to Telendos Island, we have a new one to add to our list of stupidly dangerous hikes. After so many years of travel, you'd think we might be smarter... We had crossed over on the ferry to Telendos, with some friends who were spending the day climbing. After watching them…

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Climbing at the Island of Telendos

Kalymnos is a mountain-climber's paradise, and the heart of the scene is found in the villages lined up on the island's west coast: Myrties, Masouri and Armeos. Within easy walking distance of these towns is a wealth of over twenty crags, with literally thousands of routes, which a climber could spend a lifetime discovering. It's no surprise that many return year after year, nor that the towns have repurposed themselves as climbing meccas, with tons of specialty…

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A Long Weekend on Kalymnos

Shortly after we moved into our new home in quiet Stavros, we took a long weekend trip to Kalymnos: a small island near Kos. With an abundance of sheer vertical walls, Kalymnos is a climber's paradise, and we happened to have a mountain climbing friend who would be there on 40th birthday. Considering how close we were, we decided to hop over and help her celebrate. Arriving at Kalymnos is a little tricker than at a bigger…

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Lera Cave on the Vardies Mountain

On our first night in Stavros, while relaxing on the terrace of our house, we noticed a little light halfway up the slope of the imposing Vardies Mountain. The next day, we'd learn that this is the location of a cave church, and that there's a short, steep path which leads to it. We decided to check it out that very same day. The path to the cave is easy to spot, and more or less a…

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Stavros: An Unlikely Hollywood Set

After a month spent in the relentless chaos of Chania, we were greatly looking forward to the following month. Stavros would be our haven of peace, nature and tranquility. This ultra-quiet smattering of houses along the coast of the Akrotiri Peninsula barely qualifies as a "town", and is just half an hour away from Chania. Our month-long home had a full garden, a grill, tons of space, and even a hammock. It seemed custom-made for relaxing, and…

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Seitan Limania Beach near Chania

Not far from Chania, on the eastern side of the Akrotiri Peninsula, you'll find one of the strangest beaches on Crete. Seitan Limania is a small, sandy beach, emerging from a canyon shaped like a lightning bolt, out into the open sea. This isn't the kind of beach you can get to easily; with no public transportation anywhere near by, you'll need your own car or scooter to arrive. And I wouldn't rent a car for the…

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Time to Say Goodbye to Chania … and Hello to Stavros!

After one month of living in the heart of the old town, it was time to say goodbye to Chania. We'd had a decent time, and the city is gorgeous, but our spirits were no match for the endless stream of tourists, the ceaseless noise, and the touts who never, ever, stopped trying to convince us to eat at their crappy restaurants. Dudes! Don't you know us by now? We've been saying "no" for a month! We…

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A Rainy Road-Trip Up Into The Mountains Near Chania

Having planned a weekend road trip in the mountains for some time, we were disappointed to wake up and learn that heavy rain was expected for the day. Our rental car was already booked, and we couldn't cancel our plans, if we didn't want to lose the deposit. So we decided to embrace the misery. As it turned out, the weather created an interesting mood for the trip, and we ended up at a rustic mountain restaurant,…

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