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The Archaeological Museum of Heraklion
I imagine that a lot of visitors to the nearby site of Knossos decide to skip Heraklion’s Archaeological Museum. There’s only so much history one can take! But this is a huge mistake. Not only is the museum an indispensable companion to Knossos, as home to most of its recovered treasures, but it’s actually a…
Knossos: The “Modern” Minoan Palace Near Heraklion
Just outside of Heraklion, the biggest city and capital of Crete, lie the ruins of Knossos: one of the most remarkable archaeological sites in the Western world. Knossos was home to the palace of King Minos, and thought to be the center of the extinct Minoan kingdom. It’s a place drenched in history so ancient,…
The Old Market Hall In Chania
If you look at any map of Chania, it’s easy to locate the Municipal Market: just look for the cross-shaped building in the middle of town. Each of the four “wings” has its own entrance, all of which lead to the large hall in the center. This is a great place to come for fresh…
The Coastal Hike from Loutro to Hora Sfakion
Our stay in Loutro was short but sweet. We had just a single day, not even twenty-four hours, to bask in the quiet beauty of this tiny village. There are only two ways to access Loutro: either by boat, or by foot. And since we had taken the ferry in, we decided to hoof it…
Early Morning Hike From Loutro To Finikas Bay And Back
After waking up in Loutro, we went to the top of our guesthouse, just to make sure the town was as amazing as we remembered, and that yesterday hadn’t been some vivid dream. Clutching mugs of coffee, we watched the morning sun pour in over the cliffs, bathing the bay in a soft, warm light.…
The Villages of Loutro & Chora Sfakion
A splash of white at the bottom of the cliffs, the village of Loutro looks like someone spilled paint out of a bucket, then decided not to clean it up. “Nobody will see it anyway, all the way down there.” It’s not unreasonable, because without a boat, you never would see Loutro. This tiny, gorgeous…
Exploring the Beaches Of Chania, On Foot
Because of its Venetian Harbor, Chania doesn’t have a beach directly in town. But you don’t have to go far to reach some. In fact, you can leave your car at home — given the city’s chaotic parking situation, it’s likely you’d need more time to find a spot, than you would to walk the…
Traditional Leather Processing Workshops Near Chania, Crete
Before tourism staked its claim, Chania was leather territory. For years, this had been the place to buy the famous tall, black leather boots of Crete, especially along Stivanandika Street. There’s still plenty of leather being sold on this street, but the workshops are gone, replaced by an unbroken lineup of identical tourist shops. If…
The Wuppertal Schwebebahn (Suspension Monorail) — Since 1901
On the last day of my short but intense trip to Germany, I arrived in Wuppertal, to finally fulfill one of my childhood dreams: riding the city’s famous suspension monorail, called the Schwebebahn. I recently wrote about the Skytram suspension train at Düsseldorf’s airport, but Wuppertal’s is on a whole different level. The Schwebebahn is…
Sunset, Seagulls and the Düsseldorf Altstadt
Having spent much of the day riding the suspension train at the Düsseldorf airport, I headed into town, to take a walk through the Altstadt, or Old Town. I had never before visited Düsseldorf, but had heard plenty about this quaint neighborhood, with its traditional houses, its promenade along the Rhine, and abundant bars and…
