I imagine that a lot of visitors to the nearby site of Knossos decide to skip Heraklion's Archaeological Museum. There's only so much history one can take! But this is a huge mistake. Not only is the museum an indispensable companion to Knossos, as home to most of its recovered treasures, but it's actually a more rewarding experience. We're not alone in our high opinion: Heraklion's museum is hailed as one of the premiere archaeological collections in…
Just outside of Heraklion, the biggest city and capital of Crete, lie the ruins of Knossos: one of the most remarkable archaeological sites in the Western world. Knossos was home to the palace of King Minos, and thought to be the center of the extinct Minoan kingdom. It's a place drenched in history so ancient, it's positively mythological. Heraklion is a three-hour bus ride from Chania, which we were astounded to discover. It's easy to think of…
Over a decade ago, Chania announced its plans for the new home of the city's Archaelogical Museum: a modern construction of glass and steel. Luckily for us, there have been a lot of delays, and the museum is still in the same old converted mosque that's been its home since opening in 1962. Nothing against modern buildings, of course, but we can't imagine a better place to host an archaeological collection than this place. The museum itself…
If you look at any map of Chania, it's easy to locate the Municipal Market: just look for the cross-shaped building in the middle of town. Each of the four "wings" has its own entrance, all of which lead to the large hall in the center. This is a great place to come for fresh fruits & veggies, meat, fish, and restaurants serving up local specialties. Try to visit the market as early as possible. In fact,…
Our stay in Loutro was short but sweet. We had just a single day, not even twenty-four hours, to bask in the quiet beauty of this tiny village. There are only two ways to access Loutro: either by boat, or by foot. And since we had taken the ferry in, we decided to hoof it out. A brilliant coastal path of about two hours connects this town back to Chora Sfakion, where we'd be catching the bus…
Because of its Venetian Harbor, Chania doesn't have a beach directly in town. But you don't have to go far to reach some. In fact, you can leave your car at home -- given the city's chaotic parking situation, it's likely you'd need more time to find a spot, than you would to walk the entire distance to any of these beaches! Koum Kapi Beach We'll start toward the east of the city, with tiny Koum Kapi…
The first time I'd heard about the Zena Trophy was last year, when I came across an impressive daylight firework video on Youtube. Immediately curious, I did some research. This is an annual festival held by a Dutch pyrotechnic manufacturer named Zena. After reading that the 2018 edition would include a night mascletà, which would also be the loudest fireworks ever seen in Germany, I started plotting. Am I really so crazy for mascletàs that I would…
Throughout the two months we'll be spending on Crete, our plan is to embark on a road-trip every week. The ultimate goal of our first excursion was the famous pink beach of Elafonissi, but we had plenty of time to make some other stops along the way. We didn't even make it to the beach on the first day, but saw more than enough to warrant a separate post. Minoan Tomb in Maleme Discovered only at the…
If you were hoping to see gondolas floating through the canals of Chania's Venetian Harbor, we're sorry to disappoint you. Although I'm sure any disenchantment you're feeling won't last, after you see the amazing promenade which rings the city's small port. Chania doesn't have any canals for gondolas to paddle, anyway, so they'd be pretty useless here. No, the Venetian Harbor wasn't named for its resemblance to the Floating City, but because of its creators. In the…
One of the greatest things about slow travel is the discovery of spots you'd never run into, were you visiting for just a day or two. After having spent some time familiarizing ourselves with Chania, we discovered a few spots that are off the beaten path. Please keep in mind, a couple of these are technically closed off to visitors, but nobody seems to pay any attention to that. Still, I wouldn't suggest going after dark, and…