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The Rock Dwellings of Golemo Gradište
There are a lot of amazing spots in Macedonia, which almost no tourists know anything about. And it turns out, there are some spots which very few Macedonians are aware of. Near Kratovo, we found an ancient village carved out of rock. It’s completely unmarked and almost totally unknown, even to locals. Golemo Gradište wasn’t easy to pinpoint, but this was one of the most exciting discoveries we made in Macedonia… Read More

Oct 20, 2014


Kratovo: The Town of Towers and Bridges
Nestled in the pit of a volcanic crater about an hour northeast of Skopje, Kratovo is famous for its distinctive architecture, including Ottoman-era towers and high stone bridges. We spent a day exploring its back streets, enjoying the lively atmosphere and walking along the steep ravine which divides the town in two… Read More

Oct 20, 2014


To Gamble or Not to Gamble in Gevgelija
We showed up in Gevgelija prepared to hit the casinos. A small city on the border with Greece, Gevgelija has a reputation as Macedonia’s gambling “hot spot”, and gambling is a vice to which we’ve never been immune. One of the best casinos was across the street from our hotel, but when the time came, we couldn’t be bothered… Read More

Oct 18, 2014


Meet the Macedonians
After the first month in a new location, we always take stock of our opinions with a self-interview. And after the second month, we like to find out a little bit more about the locals. So, we set out into the streets of Skopje, determined to interview a few random Macedonians. This was harder than we expected, but it was still a fun process and gave us the chance to meet some interesting people… Read More

Oct 18, 2014


Lake Dojran’s Story of Recovery
A few years ago, things were looking grim for Dojran (pronounced “doy-ran”), a lake in the southeastern corner of Macedonia. It was losing water rapidly, and facing total disappearance. But a strict conservation program has brought this little lake back from the brink… Read More

Oct 17, 2014


The Ruins of Isar and Vardarski Rid
Just outside the village of Marvinci, we found the ruins of Isar, a settlement dating from the seventh century BC. Later on the same day, we would visit the Vardarski Rid: a set of ruins on a hill overlooking Gevgelija. A museum in Gevgelija displays archaeological finds from both sites, providing information it would have been nice to have before visiting them… Read More

Oct 17, 2014


The Smolari and Kolešino Waterfalls
Visiting the wetlands of Monospitovo had eaten up the entire morning, but our day in southeastern Macedonia was far from over. After refueling with a gigantic plate of meat in Novo Selo’s Restaurant Lebed, we made our way south, to visit two of the country’s most popular waterfalls… Read More

Oct 16, 2014


The Monospitovo Wetlands
We showed up early in Monospitovo, with plans to visit Macedonia’s only swamp. Although unclear about the exact location, we were confident about finding it. Monospitovo, after all is a one-street village. There’s not much space for a swamp to hide! But it turns out that we were dealing with a very sneaky swamp… Read More

Oct 13, 2014


Scenes from Veles
Just off the “Alexander of Macedon” highway, not 30 minutes from Skopje, Veles is a city which we had frequently driven straight past, noting it only as a marker along the way: “Already at Veles? We’re making good progress!” But one day curiosity got the better of us, and we decided to stop off and see what this town, built across a hill along the Vardar, had to offer… Read More

Oct 11, 2014


Making Pita at the Oreov Lad
We visited the Restaurant Oreov Lad in order to learn how to make pita: a traditional Macedonian pastry. Filled with savory ingredients like cheese and spinach, twisted into a spiral shape, and baked to flaky perfection, pita is almost as much fun to watch being prepared as it is to eat. Almost… Read More

Oct 08, 2014


The Krklino Auto and Ethno Museum
The tiny town of Krklino is on the tourist map of Macedonia for exactly one reason: the private automotive and ethnographic museum run by Boris Tanevski and his family. Their eccentric collection of antique costumes, radios and cars is worth a short taxi ride from Bitola… Read More

Oct 06, 2014


Heraclea Lyncestis
Founded by Philip II of Macedon, the ancient city of Heraclea Lyncestis is located just south of modern Bitola. With its location along the Via Egnatia, the Roman highway which once ran from the Adriatic Sea to Istanbul, the city was an important and prosperous center of commerce until a devastating earthquake in the sixth century AD… Read More

Oct 06, 2014


The Not-Quite-Abandoned Village of Bukovo
“New York. Australia. Toronto. Ohio. Australia. Australia. New York.” We were taking an impromptu tour of Bukovo, guided by a local who had himself recently returned after fifteen years abroad. As we walked past home after abandoned home, he was listing off the faraway places to which their former occupants had emigrated… Read More

Oct 06, 2014

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