Greece

The Archaeological Museum of Heraklion

I imagine that a lot of visitors to the nearby site of Knossos decide to skip Heraklion’s Archaeological Museum. There’s only so much history one can take! But this is a huge mistake. Not only is the museum an indispensable companion to Knossos, as home to most of its recovered treasures, but it’s actually a […]

Knossos: The “Modern” Minoan Palace Near Heraklion

Just outside of Heraklion, the biggest city and capital of Crete, lie the ruins of Knossos: one of the most remarkable archaeological sites in the Western world. Knossos was home to the palace of King Minos, and thought to be the center of the extinct Minoan kingdom. It’s a place drenched in history so ancient, […]

The Archaeological Museum of Chania – History And Architecture

Over a decade ago, Chania announced its plans for the new home of the city’s Archaelogical Museum: a modern construction of glass and steel. Luckily for us, there have been a lot of delays, and the museum is still in the same old converted mosque that’s been its home since opening in 1962. Nothing against […]

The Old Market Hall In Chania

If you look at any map of Chania, it’s easy to locate the Municipal Market: just look for the cross-shaped building in the middle of town. Each of the four “wings” has its own entrance, all of which lead to the large hall in the center. This is a great place to come for fresh […]

The Coastal Hike from Loutro to Hora Sfakion

Our stay in Loutro was short but sweet. We had just a single day, not even twenty-four hours, to bask in the quiet beauty of this tiny village. There are only two ways to access Loutro: either by boat, or by foot. And since we had taken the ferry in, we decided to hoof it […]

Early Morning Hike From Loutro To Finikas Bay And Back

After waking up in Loutro, we went to the top of our guesthouse, just to make sure the town was as amazing as we remembered, and that yesterday hadn’t been some vivid dream. Clutching mugs of coffee, we watched the morning sun pour in over the cliffs, bathing the bay in a soft, warm light. […]

The Villages of Loutro & Chora Sfakion

A splash of white at the bottom of the cliffs, the village of Loutro looks like someone spilled paint out of a bucket, then decided not to clean it up. “Nobody will see it anyway, all the way down there.” It’s not unreasonable, because without a boat, you never would see Loutro. This tiny, gorgeous […]

Exploring the Beaches Of Chania, On Foot

Because of its Venetian Harbor, Chania doesn’t have a beach directly in town. But you don’t have to go far to reach some. In fact, you can leave your car at home — given the city’s chaotic parking situation, it’s likely you’d need more time to find a spot, than you would to walk the […]

Traditional Leather Processing Workshops Near Chania, Crete

Before tourism staked its claim, Chania was leather territory. For years, this had been the place to buy the famous tall, black leather boots of Crete, especially along Stivanandika Street. There’s still plenty of leather being sold on this street, but the workshops are gone, replaced by an unbroken lineup of identical tourist shops. If […]

Making Traditional Chairs in Chania, Crete

Even if you’ve never been to Greece, chances are you know these kinds of woven chairs, because they’re found in Greek restaurants around the world. We love seeing traditional crafts being made… but we never expected to open our front door and see a guy weaving a chair, directly across from us! I was sitting […]